Quilt Hoop Stand

From Susan M as posted on the Quiltnet

Equipment List

one person with shop abilities
table saw or heavy duty band saw or god forbid, hand saw
drill and bits; or better yet, drill press with square bits
router for fancy edges [not required but would be nice to shape the feet edges

Materials List

*hoop - you supply
*two wooden railing balusters - these are the things we hate to dust - they come in two lengths, after trial and error ours were cut to 28 1/2 inches
*a piece of wood long enough to span the widest point of your hoop + 5"; ie. oval hoop is 24 " + 5" = 29". This piece of wood should be at least 1" x 5/8" x [29"]. This will become the cross brace between the two legs.
*wood to make the feet. Something in the way of 1/2" thick X 12" lg x 4" wide times 2. Each foot is about 12" lg x 3 1/2" high, I cut a fancy top curve/bottom scallop on the band saw.
*scraps of a hardwood to make pegs - if you want the whole thing to disassemble.
*two sets - round headed bolts with driver slots, washers, wing nuts, +/- 1/4" dia X 2" lg

Please be patient, this stand was made by copying one I had borrowed, I'm kinda making this up as I go along.

Determine what height you want to work at. Mine is low as I like to be able to sit in a regular overstuffed chair when I work. Someone else may prefer a hard dining room chair which would perhaps require the frame to be higher. Or a little person (by stature) may need a shorter frame.

Assembly Directions

*take the hoop apart, using the inner part, drill holes in each end to take the bolts. Insert the bolts into the hoop, add the washer and then the wingnut. Use care so as not to split the hoop. If the top of the bolt is rough, smooth it on a wheel buffer or by hand, removing all burrs. The bolts will go through the inner hoop towards the center.

*Make the feet. Using the 12" x 4" boards, mark out and cut two feet. This can just be plain ole rectangular feet or get fancy with the scroll saw.

*Using the balusters make the legs. Lay the baluster on a flat surface. The squared part which is shorter will be the top of the leg; the longer squared part will be the bottom of the leg. YOU WILL HAVE TO FIGURE OUT THE MATH FOR FINAL LENGTH OF LEG [take the height to the working surface that you prefer, from that measurement subtract (-) the distance from the floor to the lower edge of the foot] [in other words, if you cut a scallop in the lower edge of the foot - the measure- ment of the depth of that cut] Did I just lose you? Read on!!! With the leg laying flat, mark a position for a bolt slot in the top of the leg [+ 1/4" wide x - 1/2" deep]. In the lower squared part of the leg, about 1 1/2 inches down from the top of this section, mark a 1" high x 1/4+" wide place for the brace to come through [the end of the brace will be cut down width wise to 1/4+ inch]. Now, turn the leg one-quarter turn and mark a a slot to accept the foot. Turn back one-quarter turn and mark a place to insert a removable square peg to hold the foot onto the leg. BE BRAVE, cut the slots etc. We had to recut the slots in the top after we shortened the legs. On our first try the working surface was too high for me.

*Make the center brace. The finished length of the brace is determined by the width of the hoop plus tongues which will go through the square part of the lower leg, plus a good healthy one inch which will take an angled peg. We measured ours by putting the hoop into the top slots and getting the distance from between the insides | | -measure this space-| | . Now, make a tongue on each end to go through the legs.

__ this business of drawing __

_* with a keyboard stinks * _

the *'s represent the "keyhole" for the peg in the brace tongue, except that the drawing is a top view of the brace and the keyholes actually go into the side of the tongue, not the top. I suppose now, looking at mine that the peg could also be drilled through the leg and brace from the side.

Note: we used oak for this project as I thought it would look nice in my FR with the oak furniture. I must admit, I forgot that the quilt would cover the whole thing and the oak would not show anyway.........BUT, oak is stronger than the alternative wood.

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